Tirana Castle and Murat Toptani Street: What to See and Eat

Tirana Castle (Kalaja e Tiranës) is a must-see if you love upscale shops and modern restaurants. It’s a stretch of an old fortress wall, restored and turned into a small pedestrian quarter of restaurants, cafés and craft shops. It runs along Murat Toptani Street, a tree-lined promenade a few minutes from Skanderbeg Square.

Quick facts
WhereRruga Murat Toptani, between Skanderbeg Square and the Namazgah Mosque (Google Maps)
PriceFree to walk through
HoursOpen all day; restaurants keep their own hours, most until late
Time needed30 minutes, or however long you need for a full meal

History

There has been a fortification here since the early Byzantine period, which is why it’s also called the Fortress of Justinian; this citadel used to be part of a network of castles that kept watch over central Albania and was linked with castle fortifications in Petrelë and Kruja. The walls you see today were built by Ahmet Pasha Bargjini in the late 18th century on the ruins of the older fort. In 1798 the castle passed to the Toptani family from Krujë, whose name the street still carries; it was besieged in 1817 and largely demolished in 1832. The castle quarter reopened in December 2018 as a pedestrian bazaar, run with the city.

What to do there

  • Walk Murat Toptani Street, one of the nicest pedestrian streets in the center, from the Parliament down past the castle walls.
  • Eat or have a drink inside the castle quarter. There’s a mix of traditional Albanian and Italian restaurants; check prices first, as some definitely have “tourist” prices.
  • Browse the craft shops for souvenirs, carpets and filigree jewelry.

Where to eat at Tirana Castle

For gelato: Cioccolatitaliani, on Murat Toptani Street by the castle walls, serves super high-quality Italian ice cream. It’s the place to go for a scoop on a warm evening, and the hot chocolate is just as good in winter.

For traditional Albanian food: Ceren Ismet Shehu, at the entrance to the castle, is the city branch of chef Ismet Shehu’s well-known agritourism on Mount Dajti, serving premium versions of classic Albanian dishes and meats. We write about it at more length in our guide to the 11 best traditional restaurants in Tirana.

From here it’s a short walk to the Namazgah Mosque, the Tanners’ Bridge and the Cloud.

FAQ

Is there a real castle in Tirana?

Not really; the Tirana Castle as you can experience it today is the remaining section of old fortress walls, now a pedestrian quarter with restaurants and shops.

What is Kalaja e Tiranës?

“Kalaja e Tiranës” is how you say “Tirana Castle” in Albanian.

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